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Oil Filter Substitute
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Joined: Jun 11, 2007
Location: DUNLAP, IL

I have a 2007 R1200R and just acquired a couple of BMW motorcycle oil filters that are identical in everything except the length is about 50% longer----more oil volume.  These filters were used on 2006 R1150Rs and other similar BMWs.  Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't use these filters as opposed to the shorter ones?

vv

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Joined: Jan 21, 2007
Location: Katy, TX
Check to be sure that the ADB valve is the same as well as the by-pass valve actuation pressure. If equal, then you can use them without concern. What are the part numbers? You might try crossing them to non-OE filters and chech the spacs.

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Dennis


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Joined: Nov 22, 2006

You're not worried about "how much oil" but about "how much oil filter media area" you have in the oil filter.

Anti-drain-back valves or membranes are not required in the R oil filters due to their mounting orientation. With the open end "up", there is nowhere for the oil to run out of when the engine is stopped.

And with the open end being "up", I like to pre-fill my oil filter right up to the threaded mount before installing it. All you need is a stready hand.



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All the best, Alex


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Joined: Nov 22, 2006

BTW, this is what a BMW (-845) oil filter looks like (not my pic)...

I opened up my last OEM BMW oil filter and it looked just like the one above. I was surprised not to find a seal between the upper end of the oil filter element and the mount. What creates a seal between those two; metal to metal contact? The far end of the oil filter element had a rubber plug inserted into the end; a bypass?

 

This is what a FRAM oil filter looks like (not my pic)...

That black rubber ring at the bottom right is the anti-drain-back valve/membrane which is not required in our case due to our oil filter orientation.



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All the best, Alex


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Joined: Nov 17, 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC

Wow, great post Global.  I can't wait to cut my RT filter in half next oil change and check it out!

Robo

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Joined: May 22, 2007
Location: Cheyenne, WY
Anybody try a Scotts metal oil filter? I like the idea of being able to clean and reuse it. They also claim to have better filtration--both flow and size of particle being filtered.

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"There ain't no Devil, there's just God when he's drunk." -- T. Waits


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Joined: Nov 22, 2006
Roborider said:

Wow, great post Global.  I can't wait to cut my RT filter in half next oil change and check it out!

Robo


You'll need one hell of a big pipe cutter. Luckily, we had one in the machine shop at work. Using a hacksaw can make a mess of it, I imagine.

I just took mine apart to see how it was made, not so much to see what particles if any, are stuck to the oil filter media.

I wanted to see if my oil filter had a seal between the oil filter element and the threaded plate. The pic that I posted was from another site and I wasn't sure if the person who split that filter may have lost it in the process. Sure enough, there is no seal in that location.

I have yet to take the actual oil filter element apart to see how it is made. There seems to be this black plastic plate in it which is visible through the top of the oil filter. Whether it houses a bypass valve, I don't know. I know pressing on it doesn't move it.

But I'll look into that later. I'm packing for a 5+ week long tour in Europe again.



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All the best, Alex


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Joined: Nov 22, 2006
Madhatter said:

Anybody try a Scotts metal oil filter? I like the idea of being able to clean and reuse it. They also claim to have better filtration--both flow and size of particle being filtered.

I am skeptical when it comes to those or those K&N air fliters.

I just don't have any way of knowing what the filtration properties are after the nth cleaning.

Supposedly Canton - Mecca make great oil filters, but none to fit our application.
http://www.cmfilters.com

 



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All the best, Alex


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